February 18 - 19, 2023 Headed out to drop off my laundry for service. The staff was not there, so I went ahead and started the wash. After 10 minutes the attendant arrived, but I only had 45 minutes remaining, so I just did my laundry myself. Afterwards Travis, Stephanie and I went out to explore a few things in our neighborhood. We stopped at the Wat Traimit to see the Buddha. Then we went to Talot Noi to check out the street art. Talot Noi is one of Bangkok's oldest neighborhoods, so the alleyways are narrow. Paired with murals along the walls, it gives a different, fun vibe to…

February 17, 2023 This morning I got out and about right away. I had a dentist appointment that I took the subway to. Right away I felt like Bangkok feels more like Singapore than anywhere else I had been since. It was nice to have a little bit of a familiar feeling. Everyone on the subway was wearing masks, so I figured out pretty quickly it's required. Unfortunately, my mask was back at the hotel, so I proceeded without for this trip. As I continued to my dentist appointment, I noticed how good it felt to be around people again. In part because Koh Yao Noi is such a small,…

February 16, 2023 Another difficult start to the day. Today is a travel day involving boats, taxis, planes and trains. I wish I felt better. Packed everything up and ate a little breakfast. Rode my scooter down to the pier where I returned it to the owner. On my way here, I found myself driving behind a small, classic Porche with Thai plates and 3 non-Thais. I wondered how and why someone got such a classic car onto this island. I also accidentally held my finger on the horn a little too long when I passed them and tried to cover it up with a friendly wave. Windy day today.…

February 13-15, 2023 I've been up since 2:00 a.m. with an upset stomach and a blistered lip. The last couple of days I've had a double whammy of the lizards and sunburn. Now I got the trifecta. I found a site to stream the Super Bowl since I'm awake. I'm not sure if it's because I'm in Thailand watching it alone and sick at 6:00 a.m. but it was boring. I reset my goal for the day to find a new place - one with air conditioning and real floors, walls and ceilings. I debated leaving here sooner than Thursday, but there isn't another place that makes sense. Hopefully my…

February 12, 2023 This morning I talked with Rose and Steve at breakfast. They're joining me on the boat tour of Hong and the surrounding islands. They said yesterday they got in a scooter accident. They weren't injured and Rose laughed about it so doesn't seem very serious. Our host took Rose, Steven and Gabriel to the pier and I followed them on my scooter. We took a long boat to a total of six islands, beginning with a few small ones nearby including Monkey Island. Monkey Island is inhabited only by monkeys, some of which swim out to collect the food thrown by the boat operators. After touring a…

February 11, 2023 Woke up and caught the entire sunrise. Quite a nice change of pace from seeing sunset for the last two weeks. Beautiful sunrise. Since it's my first full day on Koh Yao Noi, it's a scooter day. But first I need to find an ATM and get gas. Luckily I found both in the same place about 1km south of my place. This gas station is the fourth different style I've seen. They range from full service gas stations (like in the US), to a single pump on the side of the road, to clear liter bottles sold at many stands. This is the first time I…

February 10, 2023 Packed up, returned my scooter and walked to the pier. There are a total of 5 passengers and 4 employees on my speedboat to Koh Phi Phi this morning. Phi Phi is the most touristy island in Thailand, but it has some spectacular views I wanted to see. Koh Phi Phi Upon arriving at the dock, Burger King and McDonald's are the first two storefronts I saw. Already glad I'm only going to be here a few hours. The first thing I needed to do was find someone who would hold my bag for a few hours. I asked one of the boat shopfronts and they said…

February 9, 2023 Snorkeling for two hours yesterday took it out of me. I am moving like a sloth waiting for my brain to come online. With my last day here at Koh Lanta, I decided to go back to Bamboo Beach. I've seen what the whole islands has to offer, so I'm ok going back to a known place. I stopped by Nui Beach first, but it had too much trash for me to stay. Nui Beach My brain is so foggy I forgot to apply sunscreen on my face and I forgot to bring sunscreen with me altogether. Somehow after 34 straight days applying sunscreen and taking it…

February 8, 2023 Today is snorkel day! Heading out to Koh Haa and Koh Rok via speedboat for a full day of snorkeling. I met Tin Adventure Sea Tours on the beach, where we all piled into two large speedboats. The driver his the gas and we were off! First stop was Koh Haa. I know it's an island but for some reason it felt a lot more remote than I expected. We rode at a high speed for 40 minutes before we made it to the island. When I looked around there was nothing but water for as far as I could see. Don't lose the boat! One by…

February 7, 2023 Made a plan for the day while laying in bed this morning. There isn't any major tourist attraction on this island except for diving and snorkeling. So I decided today would be a good scooter day and drove across the island south of Old Town to the southern tip. The sunscreen residue and sweat on my hands makes it hard to grip the throttle. On my drive I saw a few signs saying "Drive on the left in Thailand." Always a good reminder 👍 I also saw a few speed limit signs, which I think is a first. And lastly, lots of Tsunami evacuation route signs. Ever…

February 6, 2023 Sadly I leave Railay Beach today, but I'm optimistic about Koh Lanta. I ate a big breakfast, packed, and published a few posts. While adding posts about Railay Beach, a party of dusky langurs took over the hotel courtyard. They are much wilder than the other monkeys I had seen.  The langurs threw themselves from tree to tree, chasing each other across the balcony cover which caused quite a raucous. Leaves and branches continuously fell as they wreaked havoc on the trees. They ate whatever berries/nuts grew at the top of the palm trees, the shells constantly raining down to the ground. I had a hard time…

February 5, 2023 Today I planned to kayak the island, particularly around Phra Nang Beach. I wanted to explore some of the islands close to shore and see the beach from the water. Yesterday a worker told me they begin renting kayaks at 9:30am, so I got there at opening. Unfortunately the tide was the highest it's been yet, and it slammed into the seawall on my walk there. Not the conditions I wanted to kayak in. I walked the beach as I caught up on messages with Amy and Carrie, greatly enjoying the dialog we get to have many timezones apart. The tide didn’t seem to dissipate as quickly…

February 4, 2023 Got up late today. Eventually decided to go out for breakfast and decided to order lunch. I went to a place called Local Thai Food and ordered the green curry. Delicious! Armin, who I had met in Khao Sok, was in Ao Nang. He took a long boat over to Railay Beach for the day. We hiked a short trail to a viewpoint of Railay West Beach. Many rock climbers were climbing the cliffs. Along the way we got a little lost and I suggested which way to go. Armin said in Germany they have a saying, "never speak against a woman." I'm a fan. Armin broke…

February 3, 2023 We're off to a rainy start today so I'm moving pretty slow. I caught the tail end of breakfast, then wandered off to find the Phra Nang Nai cave. On my way there I met Thomas who's visiting from Vancouver. He's currently a sommelier (at Riley's) and is originally from Slovakia. We decided to check out the sites together since we're both traveling alone. We each paid 100 baht to enter the cave, and I can report it was worth it. Quite a large cave with an elevated walking path throughout. Bats flew around near the top of the large cavern. After the cave we walked across…

February 2, 2023 After breakfast, I ventured out to see the rest of the peninsula. I want to call it an island because it is landlocked by the giant limestone cliffs from the mainland, but it is just a peninsula. I walked over to Phra Nang Beach, which could likely be the most beautiful beach I've ever seen. The sand is almost blindingly white, and the multiple shades of blue, vibrant greens, and tall white cliffs make it quite a site. More than one of the giant rock cliffs had additional beaches where they met the water. At low tide, even more beaches appear. I really need to get a…

February 1, 2023 As is often the case, I woke up to many messages this morning. Today included some from Yvonne that had us both laughing. Great way to start the day! I stopped by the ATM, then checked out of Smiley Dome Camp in Khao Sok and waited for my bus to Ao Nang. Still not used to paying cash for everything. Glad I opened a Schwab Checking account before leaving for Thailand so I don't have to pay 220 baht in withdrawal fees every time. Despite being picked up 25 minutes late and our driver pausing for a smoke break, I made it to Ao Nam Mao pier…

January 29 - 31, 2023 Today I was heading out to an overnight stay on Cheow Lan Lake in Khao Sok. I packed up my belongings and headed to the outdoor lobby for breakfast. Scrambled eggs, toast, watermelon and pineapple. At breakfast I met Aurelie, a solo traveler from Brittany, France. She was embarrassed about her English, but we made conversation anyway. We referred to our conversations as playing Pictionary, as she tried to describe forgotten words and I guessed at them. She noted how the Germans spoke great English. I told her about when I was in Paris, and I was proud to be able to have one full…

January 28, 2023 Up 2 hours before my alarm. Shared a job opportunity with a former coworker, packed up the remnants of my things and walked to meet my taxi. Thai Taxi Taxis in Thailand are small pickup trucks where the truckbed has a shallow roof and two rows of seating on either side. Climb in, hang in and try not to inhale too much exhaust. Driving in Thailand  There isn't much for transportation safety here. Few people wear helmets on their scooters. Some scooters carry toddlers either riding in the front, back or squished between two adults. Stray dogs warm themselves in the middle of the road.  Passing takes…

January 27, 2023 My last day in Koh Phangan! Had to make it a good one. Went up to Cookies Cafe for a tropical breakfast bowl. Loved it so much I'm going to try making my own once I get home. Spinach and spirulina yogurt smoothie as the base, then loaded with granola, chia and fruit. Yum! YUM Decided to check out one last beach, Mae Haad near Koh Ma. At low tide you can walk to Koh Ma island just offshore. It wasn't quite low tide but many were making the trek. Contrary to the Google reviews this entire beach was very clean and pretty. Hard to trust the…

January 24, 2023 I woke up many times through the night looking for the cockroach from my bed island. Never saw it. When I finally got up I saw it dead on the floor next to my bed. I grabbed the ashtray from the patio and put it on top of the cockroach. In case it springs back to life Today I decided to drive to the northern tip of the island and hike to Bottle Beach. The drive there was excellent. Almost no traffic and perfect weather. I parked my scooter at the end of the road and walked down to the Bottle Beach trailhead. There were multiple trails…

January 23, 2023 I woke up after getting little rest last night. I think I'm worried about driving the new (old) scooter around on this hilly, sandy island. I also woke up to a picture from Theresa of a giant snowman in my front yard, and the final of the Bengals game (they won). Today is off to a good start, just need to make time for more scooter lessons. Giant snowman We walked down to Orion for breakfast and a working session. I caught up on blog posts and replied to Lynn while working at an outdoor desk overlooking the ocean. Life is good. My Amazon sales have been…

January 22, 2023 I woke up to the daylight peaking through the creases of my eye mask. 8:15! Must've been tired. Amy and I rode up to Sunset Beach for breakfast but the place didn't open until 10. Beautiful location right on the beach though. Breakfast at What's Cup We rode further north to What's Cup and split eggs benedict with poached eggs and salmon and a Nutella/fruit crepe. Delicioso! We talked a lot about Amy's upcoming event, the growth that comes with getting uncomfortable, and our intentions for our next event- ecstatic dance. Held at Pyramid Yoga Center, ecstatic dance is something Amy's raved about and I've never heard…

January 21, 2023 I enjoyed my last incredible breakfast from my hotel before packing up and taking a Grab to Decathlon (206 baht). Decathlon is the REI of Asia with Asian prices. I picked up four dri-fit shirts and two pairs of socks. 1540 baht. After shopping I took another Grab to the airport (237 baht). This one was much smoother than in Singapore, so I'm through security 2 hours before I leave. Good time to catch up with others and review some receipts. The 3000 baht I withdrew at the beginning of my stay in Chiang Mai lasted me until I left. 2200 for the Elephant tour, 160 for…

January 20, 2023 Last full day in Chiang Mai. There isn't much that I feel compelled to do before I leave. I finally decided on walking to the only park in the old city. Once I got there it was closed off. In preparation for an upcoming flower festival. I tried to find another park but there's no way around it- Chiang Mai is very urban. Parts of the city are quaint even though it's a cement jungle. But there is not much reprieve from the incessant traffic and gray sidewalks and walls to be found on foot. After a quick Google search, I found another park nearby and dodged…

January 19, 2023 Today is the Elephant tour! I'm a little conflicted about it because elephants seem to carry a big ethical concern here in Thailand. But it's also a great opportunity for a new and unique experience, and I want to believe all the tour outfitters are taking proper care of their main attraction. I picked what looked like a reputable company, Elephant Rescue Park and away we went. We drove an hour and a half north of Chiang Mai to the Elephant Rescue Park. They have 8 domestic elephants, all of which have been purchased from circuses or the logging industry. They have two tours/day that allow visitors…

January 18, 2023 Slept in a little today. What a difference when there aren't roosters crowing and the room has darkening shades. Showered and ate breakfast. The breakfast here still amazes me. This hotel costs only $40/night yet offers me a breakfast fit for a queen, and all the water I can drink. (Yes, I get excited about unlimited water.) Upon heading out for the day, I asked if they could recommend a laundry service. They took all my dirty laundry off my hands, agreeing to return it same day for 60 baht. Laundry service is my favorite! I went out to walk the town today. First up was the…

January 17, 2023 Up at 5:30am to take Dramamine, gather my belongings and walk to the bus station. Here comes another ride in the vomit comet. Hopefully the Dramamine, cool air, and morning sun make it better than the ride here. Although some of the street vendors from the night market were still cooking, I picked up a packaged croissant from the nearby 7 Eleven. Nothing adventurous going into my stomach before this ride. Much like the drive to Pai, Amy and I talked the whole way to Chiang Mai. Sometimes I feel like I’m with Diania when Amy fawns over every dog and cat she sees. We also saw…

January 16, 2023 Today was my last day in Pai, so I moved at more than a snail’s pace for a change. I walked up to Amy’s early in the morning so I could practice driving the scooter. I drove around Pai, making lots of turns so I could practice both balance and signaling. I did much better today, never forgetting to stay in the left lane :) I also saw the real Pai market, located on the opposite side of town as the walking street. No doubt locals buy their goods here, then mark them up and sell them to us tourists. I went back to Amy’s so we…

January 15, 2023 Lazy morning today as I didn’t have anywhere to be. After breakfast, I laid around in my hammock and read. I can smell smoke in the air. The end of January is when farmers begin burning their fields and patches of forest to make way for new farmland. The smoke lowers the air quality index, and eventually all the tourists leave. I made it to Pai just in time. After reading for a few hours, I went out to Two Sisters Restaurant which specializes in Burmese food. I ordered the popular Beef Curry and some kind of green tea. The beef curry was delicious, tasting just like…

January 14, 2023 This morning I woke up to the same chorus of birds outside my window. Such a blissful way to wake up. I hurried out from under the blankets and put all my clothes on as quickly as possible. Then I grabbed breakfast then headed to Amy's for my first solo scooter ride. I was on a mission to see the big Buddha 5 minutes outside of town. The drive there was really smooth. I only had to make two left turns, which I'm better at than right turns. There was very little traffic, and I remembered to stay on the left side of the road. I give…

January 13, 2023 Around 6 a.m. cockadoodledoos start to fill the air. Shortly after, birds are chirping and a scooter starts up and speeds off. It's harder to keep track of my spending here because everything is done in cash. Most of my meals so far have been around 60 baht. The scooter rental is 200 baht a day which Amy and I are going to split. Entry to the hot springs was 100 baht. Snacks and street food cost anywhere between 20 to 60 baht. The costs are cheap but I haven't yet fully transitioned away from dollars to bahts. I feel like I'm spending $60 when I'm really…

January 12, 2023 Woke up after 9 hours of solid sleep. Thank goodness! Started to get out from under my covers only to find it was freezing. These places have no heat or air conditioning, and the walls and ceiling are thatched materials, so they match the outside temperature. In this case that was about 53 degrees. Eventually I climbed out of bed and into the shower. I took a shower that made me colder, then dressed in pants and a sweatshirt for breakfast. My bungalow offers a free breakfast from a number of options. I opted for the fruit muesli and ate as my feet got colder and colder.…

January 11, 2023 After flying into Chiang Mai, I grabbed lunch then collected some water and a power converter at 7 Eleven. 7 Eleven is everywhere in Asia. A couple hours later, Amy flew in and we met at the bus station for our trip to Pai. Shortly after we left, we stopped for gas, and the driver rocked the van side to side for about 30 seconds. I was the only person who found this strange. Amy thinks it's so they can fill the tank all the way full. This is not normal to me 😂 The road to Pai is not for the faint of heart. Between Chiang…